3D Printing - Revision history

ÖCG at 09:58, 3 March 2026

2026-03-03T09:58:34Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:58, 3 March 2026
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	'''FDM Printers''' (Fused Deposition Modelling - using strands of plastic filament such as PLA or ABS - the most common type of 3D printing)		'''FDM Printers''' (Fused Deposition Modelling - using strands of plastic filament such as PLA or ABS - the most common type of 3D printing)
			# A Bambu A1
			# A Prusa
			# Lulzbot TAZ 6s - Larger build area (250x250) than the minis, can be setup with an SD card with CGode sliced in [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]] or with [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint]]. one of the 6's is setup with a larger hardened steel nozzle and can be used for faster, lower detail printing as well as flexible filament prints
			# Cerberus Delta - SDCard and not dimensionally accurate. can only print PLA. Slic3r profile is available in Github.
			# Cube Pro - Currently undergoing conversion. Not available for use.
	# <s>Lulzbot minis - Small (150x150) build area but easy to use. Can be driven with a laptop running [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]] or via [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint]]. One is fully functional and available for use and one other is set up for flexible filament material (but is currently experiencing problems)</s> (Currently only used for events).		# <s>Lulzbot minis - Small (150x150) build area but easy to use. Can be driven with a laptop running [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]] or via [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint]]. One is fully functional and available for use and one other is set up for flexible filament material (but is currently experiencing problems)</s> (Currently only used for events).
	# Lulzbot TAZ 6 - Larger build area (250x250) than the minis, can be setup with an SD card with CGode sliced in [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]] or with [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint]]. one of the 6's is setup with a larger hardened steel nozzle and can be used for faster, lower detail printing as well as flexible filament prints
	# Lulzbot TAZ 3 - Not recommended for general use. Needs to be driven from an SDCard with CGode sliced in [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]]		# Lulzbot TAZ 3 - Not recommended for general use. Needs to be driven from an SDCard with CGode sliced in [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]]
	~~# Cerberus Delta - SDCard and not dimensionally accurate. can only print PLA. Slic3r profile is available in Github.~~
	~~# Cube Pro - Currently undergoing conversion. Not available for use.~~
	'''SLA Printers''' (Stereolithography or Resin printing - "pulls" a model out of a vat of liquid resin. good for small, high detail parts such as figurines)		'''SLA Printers''' (Stereolithography or Resin printing - "pulls" a model out of a vat of liquid resin. good for small, high detail parts such as figurines)

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	Watch that first layer, also watch the next couple if possible, this is where the errors happen.		Watch that first layer, also watch the next couple if possible, this is where the errors happen.

			== Changing filament ==
			You will need to heat the nozzle first.

			On TAZ6: You can either navigate to the filament changing menu to automate the process or heat up the nozzle to a typical printing temperature. Once the nozzle is hot, disengage the filament clutch (by first slackening the thumbscrews) and gently pull the filament out. Reverse the steps with new filament. You will want to purge filament with a hot nozzle until the filament starts coming through.

	==Pricing==		==Pricing==
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	*PLA weighs 1.4g/cm3, so the part above is 21.14g and £0.85.		*PLA weighs 1.4g/cm3, so the part above is 21.14g and £0.85.
	*ABS weighs 1.0g/cm3, so the part above is 15.1g and £0.61.		*ABS weighs 1.0g/cm3, so the part above is 15.1g and £0.61.
			PLA printing on the TAZ6 printers is currently free of charge.

	==Printing large things==		==Printing large things==
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	*Some things can't really be printed on our [[wikipedia:Fused_filament_fabrication\|FFF Type]] printers, or need support material to be printed with them and removed later. An expert at the space will be able to advise you about what can print and what won't work so well. Generally the only restriction is "you can't print on top of air"... We can do overhangs a bit past 45 degrees (see the design rules infographic below) and we can bridge over large gaps if the bridge is flat.		*Some things can't really be printed on our [[wikipedia:Fused_filament_fabrication\|FFF Type]] printers, or need support material to be printed with them and removed later. An expert at the space will be able to advise you about what can print and what won't work so well. Generally the only restriction is "you can't print on top of air"... We can do overhangs a bit past 45 degrees (see the design rules infographic below) and we can bridge over large gaps if the bridge is flat.
	*A good resource to check if your thing is print friendly is the [[File:3D_Printing_Design_Rules.pdf\|3D Printing Design Rules\|link=Special:FilePath/3D_Printing_Design_Rules.pdf]] document		*A good resource to check if your thing is print friendly is the [[File:3D_Printing_Design_Rules.pdf\|3D Printing Design Rules\|link=Special:FilePath/3D_Printing_Design_Rules.pdf]] document
	*More helpful resources here:		*More helpful resources here:<gallery>
	<gallery>
	File:3DP-Design-rules.jpg\|More guidelines for designing for 3D Printing		File:3DP-Design-rules.jpg\|More guidelines for designing for 3D Printing
	File:3DP-Modelling.jpg\|Simple guide for what 3D package is suited to what task. others to consider: OpenSCAD if you prefer a programming like interface		File:3DP-Modelling.jpg\|Simple guide for what 3D package is suited to what task. others to consider: OpenSCAD if you prefer a programming like interface
	File:3DP-Levelling.jpg\|Check this for common causes of first layer problems		File:3DP-Levelling.jpg\|Check this for common causes of first layer problems
	</gallery>		</gallery>
			*Make sure you bag unused filament so it does not absorb moisture
			*If you remove filament from the printers, use feed the end of the filament through the holes on the spool to prevent it from forming knots.
	==Print Queue==		==Print Queue==
	So Make It generally has enough printers to satisfy demand, however if you think you might need a specific printer or capability and want to ensure it's available on your visit, please mention it on the [http://slack.somakeit.org.uk/ 3D printing slack channel:] #3D-pug, however we don't operate a formal queue.		So Make It generally has enough printers to satisfy demand, however if you think you might need a specific printer or capability and want to ensure it's available on your visit, please mention it on the [http://slack.somakeit.org.uk/ 3D printing slack channel:] #3D-pug, however we don't operate a formal queue.

ÖCG at 21:36, 2 March 2026

2026-03-02T21:36:09Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:36, 2 March 2026
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	If the build plate is '''PEI,''' then additional care must be taken. '''ABS''' and '''PLA''' will both print directly on the surface but it must be super clean. A quick wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol is usually enough. If you are printing with '''PETG''' or '''Ninjaflex/TPU''' however, glue stick is still required otherwise they can damage the PEI layer on part removal.		If the build plate is '''PEI,''' then additional care must be taken. '''ABS''' and '''PLA''' will both print directly on the surface but it must be super clean. A quick wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol is usually enough. If you are printing with '''PETG''' or '''Ninjaflex/TPU''' however, glue stick is still required otherwise they can damage the PEI layer on part removal.

	The TAZ 6 printers perform auto bed levelling at the start of the print. This is achieved by the printer touching the hot-end to each corner of the bed where it makes an electrical contact with the 4 plates. It frequently encounters an issue with poor contact and will push down harder than it should to make the contact, which is easily observable. This will cause the bed level to be recorded lower than it should and your prints will fail. You should watch the start of each print and if you observe the poor contact behaviour, stop the print, clean the hot-end and plates and try again.		The TAZ 6 printers perform auto bed levelling at the start of the print. This is achieved by the printer touching the hot-end to each corner of the bed where it makes an electrical contact with the 4 plates. It frequently encounters an issue with poor contact and will push down harder than it should to make the contact, which is easily observable. This will cause the bed level to be recorded lower than it should and your prints will fail. You should watch the start of each print and if you observe the poor contact behaviour, stop the print, clean the hot-end and plates and try again.Here is a video showing what successful auto-levelling looks like: [[File:Tazautolevel.webm\|thumb\|A video ]]
			The nozzle shouldn't push down onto the bed any harder than this.
	Here is a video showing what successful auto-levelling looks like. The nozzle shouldn't push down onto the bed any harder than this.
	~~[[File:Tazautolevel.webm\|thumb\|A video ]]~~

ÖCG at 21:31, 2 March 2026

2026-03-02T21:31:34Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:31, 2 March 2026
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	The TAZ 6 printers perform auto bed levelling at the start of the print. This is achieved by the printer touching the hot-end to each corner of the bed where it makes an electrical contact with the 4 plates. It frequently encounters an issue with poor contact and will push down harder than it should to make the contact, which is easily observable. This will cause the bed level to be recorded lower than it should and your prints will fail. You should watch the start of each print and if you observe the poor contact behaviour, stop the print, clean the hot-end and plates and try again.		The TAZ 6 printers perform auto bed levelling at the start of the print. This is achieved by the printer touching the hot-end to each corner of the bed where it makes an electrical contact with the 4 plates. It frequently encounters an issue with poor contact and will push down harder than it should to make the contact, which is easily observable. This will cause the bed level to be recorded lower than it should and your prints will fail. You should watch the start of each print and if you observe the poor contact behaviour, stop the print, clean the hot-end and plates and try again.

			Here is a video showing what successful auto-levelling looks like. The nozzle shouldn't push down onto the bed any harder than this.
			[[File:Tazautolevel.webm\|thumb\|A video ]]





	Keep watching until at least the first layer is down, ideally check again after the first 3, this is where most failures will occur or be evident.		Keep watching until at least the first layer is down, ideally check again after the first 3, this is where most failures will occur or be evident.

Sjefferson99: Update page link name for remote printing

2025-06-05T13:15:08Z

Update page link name for remote printing

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:15, 5 June 2025
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	Most of the printers have an attached Raspberry Pi acting as an octoprint server. You connect to the Octoprint server by pointing a web browser to the appropriate octopi instance attached to the printer you need e.g. taz1 is http://taz1 The login for Octoprint is the same as the space WiFi.		Most of the printers have an attached Raspberry Pi acting as an octoprint server. You connect to the Octoprint server by pointing a web browser to the appropriate octopi instance attached to the printer you need e.g. taz1 is http://taz1 The login for Octoprint is the same as the space WiFi.

	The detailed instructions for using [[Octoprint and ~~OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint and OctoEverywhere are here~~]]		The detailed instructions for using [[Octoprint and Remote Printing]]

	=== 5. Print! ===		=== 5. Print! ===

Sjefferson99: Typos

2025-01-06T17:34:47Z

Typos

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:34, 6 January 2025
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	If the build plate is '''PEI,''' then additional care must be taken. '''ABS''' and '''PLA''' will both print directly on the surface but it must be super clean. A quick wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol is usually enough. If you are printing with '''PETG''' or '''Ninjaflex/TPU''' however, glue stick is still required otherwise they can damage the PEI layer on part removal.		If the build plate is '''PEI,''' then additional care must be taken. '''ABS''' and '''PLA''' will both print directly on the surface but it must be super clean. A quick wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol is usually enough. If you are printing with '''PETG''' or '''Ninjaflex/TPU''' however, glue stick is still required otherwise they can damage the PEI layer on part removal.

	The TAZ 6 printers perform auto bed levelling at the start of the print. This is achieved by the printer touching the hot-end to each corner of the bed where it makes an electrical contact with the 4 plates. It frequently encounters an issue with poor contact and will push down harder than it should to make the contact which is easily observable. This will ~~case~~ the bed level to be recorded lower than it should and your prints will fail. You should watch the start of each print and if you observe the poor contact behaviour, ~~the~~ stop the print, clean the hot-end and plates and try again.		The TAZ 6 printers perform auto bed levelling at the start of the print. This is achieved by the printer touching the hot-end to each corner of the bed where it makes an electrical contact with the 4 plates. It frequently encounters an issue with poor contact and will push down harder than it should to make the contact, which is easily observable. This will cause the bed level to be recorded lower than it should and your prints will fail. You should watch the start of each print and if you observe the poor contact behaviour, stop the print, clean the hot-end and plates and try again.

	Keep watching until at least the first layer is down, ideally check again after first 3, this is where most failures will occur or be evident.		Keep watching until at least the first layer is down, ideally check again after the first 3, this is where most failures will occur or be evident.

	=== 4. Load G-CODE ===		=== 4. Load G-CODE ===

Sjefferson99: Add bed levelling errors advice.

2025-01-06T16:59:23Z

Add bed levelling errors advice.

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:59, 6 January 2025
Line 54:		Line 54:

	If the build plate is '''PEI,''' then additional care must be taken. '''ABS''' and '''PLA''' will both print directly on the surface but it must be super clean. A quick wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol is usually enough. If you are printing with '''PETG''' or '''Ninjaflex/TPU''' however, glue stick is still required otherwise they can damage the PEI layer on part removal.		If the build plate is '''PEI,''' then additional care must be taken. '''ABS''' and '''PLA''' will both print directly on the surface but it must be super clean. A quick wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol is usually enough. If you are printing with '''PETG''' or '''Ninjaflex/TPU''' however, glue stick is still required otherwise they can damage the PEI layer on part removal.

			The TAZ 6 printers perform auto bed levelling at the start of the print. This is achieved by the printer touching the hot-end to each corner of the bed where it makes an electrical contact with the 4 plates. It frequently encounters an issue with poor contact and will push down harder than it should to make the contact which is easily observable. This will case the bed level to be recorded lower than it should and your prints will fail. You should watch the start of each print and if you observe the poor contact behaviour, the stop the print, clean the hot-end and plates and try again.

			Keep watching until at least the first layer is down, ideally check again after first 3, this is where most failures will occur or be evident.

	=== 4. Load G-CODE ===		=== 4. Load G-CODE ===
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	=== 5. Print! ===		=== 5. Print! ===
	You will have slightly different print instructions depending on if you're printing off the SDCard, directly from Cura or from Octoprint.		You will have slightly different print instructions depending on if you're printing off the SDCard, directly from Cura or from Octoprint.

			Watch that first layer, also watch the next couple if possible, this is where the errors happen.

	==Pricing==		==Pricing==

Sjefferson99: Adjust octoprint hostname

2024-12-29T13:01:14Z

Adjust octoprint hostname

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:01, 29 December 2024
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	* Octoprint		* Octoprint

	Most of the printers have an attached Raspberry Pi acting as an octoprint server. You connect to the Octoprint server by pointing a web browser to the appropriate octopi instance attached to the printer you need e.g. ~~octopi1~~ is http://~~octopi1~~ The login for Octoprint is the same as the space WiFi.		Most of the printers have an attached Raspberry Pi acting as an octoprint server. You connect to the Octoprint server by pointing a web browser to the appropriate octopi instance attached to the printer you need e.g. taz1 is http://taz1 The login for Octoprint is the same as the space WiFi.

	The detailed instructions for using [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint and OctoEverywhere are here]]		The detailed instructions for using [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint and OctoEverywhere are here]]

Sjefferson99: Update printers overview.

2024-12-29T12:57:27Z

Update printers overview.

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:57, 29 December 2024
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	'''FDM Printers''' (Fused Deposition Modelling - using strands of plastic filament such as PLA or ABS - the most common type of 3D printing)		'''FDM Printers''' (Fused Deposition Modelling - using strands of plastic filament such as PLA or ABS - the most common type of 3D printing)
	# Lulzbot minis - Small (150x150) build area but easy to use. Can be driven with a laptop running [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]] or via [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint]]. One is fully functional and available for use and one other is set up for flexible filament material (but is currently experiencing problems)		# <s>Lulzbot minis - Small (150x150) build area but easy to use. Can be driven with a laptop running [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]] or via [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint]]. One is fully functional and available for use and one other is set up for flexible filament material (but is currently experiencing problems)</s> (Currently only used for events).
	# Lulzbot TAZ 6 - Larger build area (250x250) than the minis, can be setup with an SD card with CGode sliced in [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]] or with [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint]]. one of the 6's is setup with a larger hardened steel nozzle and can be used for faster, lower detail printing as well as flexible filament prints		# Lulzbot TAZ 6 - Larger build area (250x250) than the minis, can be setup with an SD card with CGode sliced in [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]] or with [[Octoprint and OctoEverywhere\|Octoprint]]. one of the 6's is setup with a larger hardened steel nozzle and can be used for faster, lower detail printing as well as flexible filament prints
	# Lulzbot TAZ 3 - Not recommended for general use. Needs to be driven from an SDCard with CGode sliced in [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]]		# Lulzbot TAZ 3 - Not recommended for general use. Needs to be driven from an SDCard with CGode sliced in [[Printing with Cura\|Cura]]
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	# Cube Pro - Currently undergoing conversion. Not available for use.		# Cube Pro - Currently undergoing conversion. Not available for use.
	'''SLA Printers''' (Stereolithography or Resin printing - "pulls" a model out of a vat of liquid resin. good for small, high detail parts such as figurines)		'''SLA Printers''' (Stereolithography or Resin printing - "pulls" a model out of a vat of liquid resin. good for small, high detail parts such as figurines)

			These printers require an [https://somakeit.org.uk/3d-printing/ induction].

	# Elegoo Mars with wash and curing station		# Elegoo Mars with wash and curing station

Sjefferson99: Add filament storage instructions.

2024-12-29T11:59:43Z

Add filament storage instructions.

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:59, 29 December 2024
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	A volunteer will be able to suggest the best printer to use for your thing and how to complete the process of printing it. [[Printing with Cura]] is a good place to start.		A volunteer will be able to suggest the best printer to use for your thing and how to complete the process of printing it. [[Printing with Cura]] is a good place to start.

			== Filament storage ==
			'''Please ensure all filament is [[3D printer filament storage\|kept in plastic bags]] with a desiccant sachet when not in use as filament is highly hygroscopic. If filament is performing poorly due to moisture, you can use the [[3D printer filament storage\|filament dryer]].'''

	==Printers Overview==		==Printers Overview==

Abrugsch: Added link to resin printing document

2023-02-22T11:16:00Z

Added link to resin printing document

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:16, 22 February 2023
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	# Load the sliced GCODE onto the printer (using on-board SDCard reader, Octoprint or direct USB connection.		# Load the sliced GCODE onto the printer (using on-board SDCard reader, Octoprint or direct USB connection.
	# Print!		# Print!
	There is a different workflow for the resin printer but it broadly follows the same general steps.		There is a [https://somakeit.org.uk/resin-printing/ different workflow] for the resin printer but it broadly follows the same general steps.

	=== 1. 3D Model ===		=== 1. 3D Model ===